From the desk of Kevin Grange
Kevin Grange is an award-winning freelance writer who has written for Backpacker Magazine, National Parks Magazine, and the Orange County Register, among others. He has been to Bhutan four times and has completed the Snowman Trek three times, including twice as a guide. He is author of Beneath Blossom Rain.
The call came at dawn on the morning of the twentieth day: “Wake
up, Sir!” my guide Namgyel exclaimed, tugging on my tent door. “She is out!
By “She,” Namgyel meant Gangkhar Puensum, the massive mountain that
straddles the border separating Tibet and the country I was hiking through, the
tiny Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan. At 24,829 feet, Gangkhar Puensum is not only
the tallest peak in Bhutan, it is also the highest unclimbed mountain in the
world. From the moment we arrived at our campsite the day before, Namgyel had had
the task of “mountain watching,” with strict orders from the head chef to fetch
us the moment Gangkhar Puensum appeared in view. I threw on my boots, grabbed
my coat and camera, and unzipped my tent door.
Bhutan is a small country, about half the size of Indiana, wedged
between India and Tibet. Along with being the world’s most mountainous country,
Bhutan has the distinction of being the last Buddhist kingdom in the Himalayas,
of not having a single traffic light, of being governed by a policy of “Gross
National Happiness,” and of having the toughest trek in the world. At 216
miles, including eleven high mountain passes (seven over 16,000 feet), Bhutan’s
epic Snowman Trek is a 24-day boxing match for the hiking boots. More climbers
have scaled Mount Everest than have finished the Snowman Trek. Historically
less than 120 people attempt the Snowman each year and, of those, less than half
finish. Just some of the challenges of the trek include its duration,
notoriously bad weather, long mileage, high camps, and high elevation—all of
which mean there is a high likelihood something will go wrong. However, a
lifetime of traveling has taught me that it’s precisely these types of crucible
situations that can reveal new aspects of your character and lead to new
discoveries.
Having had the good fortune of traveling to Bhutan four times, I’ve
noticed a number of changes in myself since my first trip. I once struggled
with greeting someone in Dzongkha, Bhutan’s national language,
and yet, saying kuzuzangpo-la now seems as effortless as hello in
English. I also now intuitively walk clockwise around stupas (Buddhist
monuments), praise the gods like a local by shouting “Lha Gyalo”
from the high mountain passes, and have the good gastrointestinal sense to
request Bhutan’s mild chilies with my meals. However, perhaps the most striking
change can be seen in the pictures of my visits to the “Land of the Thunder
Dragon.”


